Chikankari is a traditional style of embroidery from Lucknow. It is one of its kind. It is hand embroidery. This style of stitching is exquisite and involves craftsmanship. It is a form of art which is requires practice and patience. It is full of discipline and focuses on details. It is unique and beautiful. There are numerous styles of Lucknow Chikankari. But some are very popular and are always in demand. They are:
Lucknow Chikankari: Flat Stitches
This style of stitching is exquisite and very subtle. The stitching is done in such a way that it merges with the fabric. This style looks classy and rich. It gives an impression that the stitching is itself the texture of the fabric. This style of stitching is a broad collection of many styles. Many styles which come under this category are:
Bakhiya: It is one of the most mysterious sounding and the popular style of stitching of Chikankari work. Stitches in this style are done on the back side of the cloth, and the actual design is being made on the front part of the cloth that is in herringbone style.
Pechni- Here the Tepchi is secured by lacing the string over it in a normal way to give the impact of something like a switch spring and is constantly done on the correct side on the fabric.
Tepchi- This is mostly an extremely basic darning stitch. In this style, the thread is interlaced along the grain of the fabric in single rows at a time. In this style thus a line is formed.
Badla- It is a stem stitch which is draped horizontally with smaller stitches. It is usually done to make the veins of any flower.
Keel Kangan- this style of stitch is done to adorn the petals of a flower.
Rahet- A branch of the Bakhiya stitch, it is seldom utilized in its most straightforward structure. Famously known as “Dohra Bakhiya”, it shapes a strong line of the back fasten on the correct side of the texture. Generally used to make layout fastens.
Khatau- this style of stitching also comes from Bakhiya stitch. This style is much more complicated though. It is more fine and precise. This style is tough to do in all types of clothes. It is commonly done on a plain woven unbleached textile.
Lucknow Chikankari : Open trellis
Woven Trellis Stitch is an amazing stitch that is just iconic for filling any pattern. The way this is woven, this stitch will give the best dimension to any design. Two kinds of Lucknow Chikankari stitching comes under this. They are:
Jaali work- The Jaali stitch in Chikan weaving is an extraordinary forte of this art this fasten gives an impact of open work or net made. In this stitch the string is never drawn through the texture, guaranteeing that the back part of the piece of clothing looks as faultless as the front.
Hool- It is a fine detached eyelet line. In this, an opening is punched in the texture and the strings are prodded separated. It is then held by little straight join all round and worked with one string on the correct side of the texture. It very well may be worked with six strings and regularly frames the focus of a blossom.
Lucknow Chikankari : Raised Stitching
Unlike flat stitching this style of stitching is done to carve with a raised effect. This is done on different types of fabrics. It gives a grainy look on the fabric. This style of stitching includes many styles. Some of them are:
Phanda- this is basically a knot stitch which are done in the shapes of millets. They are usually worked on top of one another. They are a collection of small lazy daisy stitches.
Ghas Patti- this is as the name suggests. The grass leaves are stitched in a V shape. This is done on the right side of the fabric. These stitches add to the beauty of the design. They are done to make the design look fuller and to compliment the flowers.
These are only few styles of Chikankari embroidery. There are plenty more. It is your choice to select from a long list of stitching available. In the end it all depends upon the personal preference.